Thursday, February 9, 2017
MArch project
Wednesday, January 18, 2017
A tangled canvas
Tuesday, January 17, 2017
And I forgot to mention . . .
Been a Long Time. . .
Sunday, September 6, 2015
Inktense on Silk, the test
Thursday, June 18, 2015
New blog Post
Saturday, June 13, 2015
The Interview
Thursday, June 4, 2015
Between Paper and Silk
Thursday, May 28, 2015
The Judicius Use of Black in Painting
Saturday, May 23, 2015
water color on silk and paper
Wednesday, May 20, 2015
Is it Watercolor or Is It Silk?
Tuesday, May 12, 2015
New painting
Sunday, May 3, 2015
Water based Resist & Magic Sizing Do Not Mix
Monday, April 13, 2015
Silk paint in progress, part 2
Wednesday, February 4, 2015
The Magic of Magic Sizing
On previous post I mentioned spraying silk with magic sizing as a stop flow agent on the silk. I have recently learned that magic sizing can be used to manipulate silk paint colors on silk. How it's done is simple. Take a plastic container of some sorts it's a lid, spray the sizing into that container. It will bubble & foam, but continue to spray until it accumulates. Let it sit, lid off, for a while, 30 minutes at least, preferably overnight. You can brush this liquid onto the silk which acts as a stronger stop flow resist, a wetting agent, which allows you to manipulate the paints because the sizing doesn't allow the paint to immediately soak into the silk, thus keeping the silk wet longer. I use this to soften the edges when I have shading to do or when I have a large area to cover with the paint. It's much easier than trying to brush out the hard edges that form when the paint soaks into the silk quickly. You can use this method to create textures like tree bark , grass, and I such. I usually spray a 4 oz. deli container at least half full, let it sit, then put on the lid. I have plenty to use as needed. The sizing usually dries within an hour so you don't have to wait a long time between painting sessions. Again this method is not mine exclusively, silk artist Karen Sistek created it, I'm just passing it along as I learn more about using this substance in silk painting.
The. Natural World quilt
This project I call the natural world because each block contains an element found in nature. It's hand painted silk panels with cotton sashing. Has yet to add an outer border, to be quilted & finished. It will be on display & for sale at my solo show in April.
The Cheshire Cat, second photo, is complete. Hand painted silk with cotton borders. It is a challenge for my quilt guild, the fairy tale challenge, I chose Alice In wonderland as the fairy tale. It will also be displayed/for sale in the April show.
BTE, these IPad photos don't do the pieces justice. They are much brighter in person.
Thursday, January 15, 2015
Dyes v Paint in the Silk World
The first two photos are of paint, both are thin consistency and are acrylic based, however, each is different in than the first photo contains paints suitable for silk. The second photo is a high flow acrylic similar to water color and is Not suitable for silk. It contains a higher ratio of polymer, thus rendering a much stiffer feel to that of the silk paint. Silk paints need to be heat set for permanency, the high flow acrylic is suited for other types of art and is much more expensive than silk paints.
The third photo are dyes, these are Jacquard green label dyes that can be set by either painting on or submersing in a solution of dye set, also of the same brand. They can also be steam set. If you'll notice I said green label can be set via the Dyeset solution. To the best of my knowledge these dyes are the only ones that can be set this way, all others, including Jacquards red label Must be steam set and that is another process to be covered at another time, follow the directions for each brand of dyes as to their particular technique for setting.
Another difference between silk paints and silk dyes is that the dyes actually become part of the silk fabric, leaving it with a soft feel ( or hand) while the paint sits on the surface of the silk and leaves it with a slightly stiffer feel. You can tell the difference if you fee both at the same time.
Both dyes and paints can be painted on with the same type of brush, although I wouldn't use the same brushes for dyes that I'd use for paints. This has to do with the fact that paints are polymer based. Dyes can be reconstituted with water if they dry out in the bottle or palate, paints cannot, once they are dry, they are there, not to be moved without scrubbing. Both give lustrous color, both can be mixed to make new colors. What do I prefer? Paints, simply for their ease of handling. And paints can also be used on paper, if you desire. It's similar to liquid watercolor.
Pick your poison for adding color to silks, dyes or paints, it's your choice. Good luck.
Monday, January 12, 2015
Cold Wax, what is it, how it's used.
This is cold wax. It's cold because it's not solid at room temperature like regular wax is, therefore it does not need to be heated to be used. It's the consistency of milk but it can be brushed on plain silk as a mask to preserve white areas or painted on the lines to separate areas of color. But, it has another use. In traditional batik wax is applied over areas of color to preserve the color when successive layers of color ( usually other colors) are applied. Cold wax can be used for this. Let the base color dry thoroughly, paint the cold wax over the areas you want to preserve, let it dry completely, then paint the other color or colors. This wax can be applied in many layers over many colors, as it is in batik. Once you have all the colors applied & dry, simply heat set the silk, between layers of newsprint or old newspaper ( at least 3 weeks old so the ink won't transfer). The wax will melt out of the silk & be absorbed by the newsprint. You need to do this even if you use the cold wax with dyes to get the wax out. Depending on the number if layers of wax used, you may have to repeat the ironing process several times to get all the wax out. The silk should not be stiff once the wax is out. If you use silk paints, you're done, the ironing process to remove the wax also heat sets the paint. If you're using dyes, after the wax is completly removed, set the dyes with your method of choice, usually steaming. The whites of this piece (last photo) were preserved by painting on cold wax prior to painting. At first, when I began using cold wax, I expected it to be much thicker. I was confused by it's thin consistency but as I use it more & mores, I learned to use it as a masking agent instead if a resist in the traditional sense. Keep this in mind when you start to use it. It's thin enough to run until it dries, which takes about 20 minutes or so, and it repels color once dry. It's great used as a masking agent, similar to what one would do with watercolor, but it's tricky to use as a traditional resist to separate areas if color in the serti technique. I hope this helps clear the confusion about cold wax.











